Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Connemara and Clifden

We headed into Connemara yesterday heading away from Galway and toward Clifden.

We had only three goals for the day:
1. To see the gorgeous scenery
2. To visit the master bodhran maker's studio in Roundstones and
3. To swim in the sea.

Connemara (Conamara), "which derives from Conmhaicne Mara (meaning: descendants of Con Mhac, of the sea), is a district in the west of Ireland comprising of a broad peninsula between Killary Harbour and Kilkieran Bay in the west of County Galway or south west Connacht. The Conmhaicne Mara were a branch of the Conmhaicne, an early tribal grouping that had a number of branches located in different parts of Connacht.

As this branch of Conmhaicne were located by the sea they became known as the Conmhaicne Mara, i.e., of the sea.

Connemara was traditionally divided into North Connemara and South Connemara. The mountains of the Twelve Bens and the Owenglin river, which flows into the sea at Clifden, marked the boundary between the two parts."

So, again, you've got that combination of the things I love: mountains and sea!

Firstly, a quick stop by Patrick Pearse' Cottage.

And then back on the road. Carefully.



We headed in to Roundstone for a bite to eat and to meet the master bodhran maker Malachy Kearns. Here is a review of his work in Ireland Welcomes magazine.

Our new Bodhran instructor in St. Paul recommended a place in Dublin for us to purchase a couple of Bodhrans before we head home, but we heard of Malachy and headed straight to his shop in a former monastery on the edge of Roundstone.



He wasn't there but his wife Gifty was. She was amazing showing us around, playing for us and explaining the qualities of the different Bodhrans.

Exploring their shop we found this letter from the Obamas thanking them for the Bodhran gift on their last visit to Ireland.


 

The shop.

Giftie showing us different bodhrans.
 
Giftie showing us a bit of the sound.

Johnny and the biggest bodhran of them all!

Malachy's workshop.
 Here is a video of Giftie playing. She was amazing and, according to her, self taught!



Playground with the twelve pins of Connemara in the background.


Johnny spends much of his time skipping rope.


 After roundstones we headed to Dogs Bay Beach.



Here's a description

"Lying back to back, Dogs Bay and Gurteen Bay are two of the most beautiful beaches in County Galway and probably in the West of Ireland.  They are situated only 2 miles outside the picturesque village of Roundstone in Connemara, Co. Galway. Dogs Bay and Gurteen Bay make up one of the finest stretches of coastline in Connemara, offering uncompromising views of Errisbeg and the surrounding countryside.

Dogs Bay is a spectacular horseshoe shaped bay with more than a mile long stretch of white sandy beach. Similar to Gurteen Bay, the sand is not comprised of traditional limestone but rather made entirely of fragments of seashells which give it a pure white colour."


To fulfill my goal of getting into the sea as much as possible before we leave, we donned our suits and headed into the North Atlantic!

It needed only one thing to be perfect: 10 degrees Celsius!

Johnny and I climbed the rocks to get to the beach searching for cockles and flowers in the rocks.








            And check out the gorgeous rocky hills behind the sea.



 Once you're in the water, it is gorgeous.





Our bookworm.
I loved the stone walls here. They are different than in other parts of the country, particularly the Burren. The stones are more rounded and not quite as well fit together. You can see the sky and sea through them.




After our "lucky dip" in the sea we headed to Cliften for dinner and a rest. Maggie was toast, so she hung back and chatted with her friends while we headed out and listened to a bit of music at a local pub. It is light out here until p.m. now!

Johnny skipped his way through the village.

 
 



 

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