Johnny was heading over to Jessie's after school to hang with a few kids on a play date and Maggie had basketball practice, so we had a few extra hours. Our goals? I wanted to see the National Museum of Ireland, particularly their exhibit on Bog Bodies. We also wanted to check out the Cake Cafe to see if there was anything interesting for Maggie's upcoming big day (On the 8th, for those of you readers new to our family, Maggie turns 13!).
Being in the National Museum reminded me how lovely it is to live in a nation's capital. I lived in Washington DC for six years and you forget how nice it is to have free museums with national treasures right at your fingertips.
This museum is vast and extensive. Its main pieces that draw visitors from all over the world are the Aradach Silver Chalace and the Tara Broch--evidence of excellent early medieval Irish metalwork. Maggie's recent history trimester exam covered the Chalace extensively (if only we had known, we would have taken her to the museum. I'm sure her contemporaries have visited many times!)
Here's a bit about the Silver Chalace:
"The Ardagh Chalace is one of the greatest treasures of the early Irish Church. It is part of a hoard of objects found in the 19th century by a young man digging for potatoes near Ardagh, Co. Limerick. It was used for dispensing Eucharistic wine during the celebration of Mass. The form of the chalice recalls late Roman tableware, but the method of construction is Irish.
The bowl and foot of the chalice are made of spun silver. The outer side of the bowl is decorated with applied gold, silver, glass, amber and enamel ornament. The underside of the foot is also highly decorated and contains a polished rock crystal at the centre."
Here's a bit about the brooch (aka the "Bettystown Brooch"):
"This brooch was found not in Tara but near the seashore at Bettystown, Co. Meath, in 1850. Its provenance was attributed to Tara by a dealer in order to increase its value. It is made of cast and gilt silver and is elaborately decorated on both faces. The front is ornamented with a series of exceptionally fine gold filigree panels depicting animal and abstract motifs that are separated by studs of glass, enamel and amber. The back is flatter than the front, and the decoration is cast. The motifs consist of scrolls and triple spirals and recall La Tène decoration of the Iron Age.
A silver chain made of plaited wire is attached to the brooch by means of a swivel attachment. This feature is formed of animal heads framing two tiny cast glass human heads."
The museum was huge so we focused our attention on this visit to the exhibit on bog bodies.** The mining of peat throughout Ireland (and other sites in Northern Europe) have resulted in a few finds of bodies that have naturally mummified in the bogs for over 2,000 years (from the Iron Age). Through the examination of these bodies scientists discovered how the bodies may have been placed in the bogs (perhaps ritualistic sacrifice), the role the people have in society, and even what their last meal was.
Old Croghan Man was found in Ireland in 2003. The material found on his hair indicates that he must have been of high status and that the materials (oil or gel) originated in France or Spain indicating trade between the two regions. The damage to his body also indicates he may have been tortured either before or after death.
The body of Clonycavan Man also has evidence of gel in his hair, a Mowhawk type of hair style and a beard. From Wikipedia: "Clonycavan Man is believed to have been murdered - based on an examination of the evidence found on his body by the Garda Technical Bureau(Irish Police Forensic Division). His skull had been split open by a sharp implement. There is a deep wound on the top of his head, and parts of his brain have been found in this wound. There is also a large laceration across the bridge of his nose leading under his right eye. Both injuries seem to have been caused by the same sharp implement, most likely an axe. Radiocarbon datinghas placed his death to between 392 BCE and 201 BCE, during the Iron Age of western Europe, making him around 2,300 years old."
With a promise to ourselves that we'd be back to explore more of the museum, we headed over to the Cake Cafe to see what they had to offer as far as birthday cakes go. This place is one of those places you read about in off-the-beaten path descriptions or see in movies. I heard about it through the blog listed on the right (Farmette) and did notice later that it was listed in my Dublin guidebook, but in a tiny little paragraph and under the wrong name.
We entered through the back (and less exciting) entrance on a back road that you would never think to walk down and hence, never find unless you are looking for it.
We exited how one should enter: through the Daintree Stationary Shop off of Camden. Had we entered the right way, this is what we would have seen first.
This is the view looking back.
We sat outside as the place is tiny and was utterly packed inside. It was gorgeous out. Here's the view from our table.
And the decorated wall behind me.
After the waitress "gave us a think", we chose to split a savory tart (yum) and some "mint lemonade" that, while lovely contained literally no sugar, and took home cookies for the kids.
We walked home via Grafton. Tried to find a good espresso as recommended in our guidebook on 18 Montague St. but it was taken over by some other sort of business.
*One of the breakfasts that I love there is something we have split a couple of times. It is essentially a potato pancake with two over-easy eggs on top. but the potato pancake is not like the ones you know at home. It is essentially a one-inch thick disc of mashed potatoes, or perhaps the leftover potatoes from last night's dinner (Sheila called it a flattened ball of mashed potatoes when I asked her how she'd describe it for I couldn't find the right words). The potatoes have herbs and spices in them and the pancake is fried but mashed potato goodness inside. It is really good but too much for one person. They also have excellent coffee and berry scones. One thing I really like about the even casual restaurants here is that nothing is quick-in-quick out. Even the Starbucks-by-the-sea. At the Lazy Day Cafe you go up to the counter, order, and then sit down. They bring it to you. So its casual in the sense that you go up to order, but it is as if they are reminding you that there will only be one March 1, 2013. Slow down. You are paying for our services, enjoy if for even just a few minutes. Here are a few pictures from inside the cafe.
Notice that there are only just a few tables making it all that special. This picture is taken from the back end of the cafe. Behind me there is a little couch and a table and a bookshelf where people also sit and enjoy. Ahead you can see the display case, which is entirely too tantalizing, and a couple of guys enjoying their morning coffee and a chat.
**Here is a great Wikipedia entry on bog bodies.
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