Our Days in Dublin: Croagh Patrick

Saint Patrick's Stack (Cruach Phádraig), or "the Reek" is a 2,507 foot mountain in County Mayo just outside of Westport. It is the third highest mountain in Mayo and has been a site of pilgrimage (particularly on the summer solstice) since before the arrival of Celtic Christianity. Supposedly Saint Patrick fasted on the summit for forty days in the fifth century. Legend has it that at the end of the fast he threw a silver bell down the side of the hill knocking the "she demon Corra" from the site and banishing all snakes from Ireland.

One survey showed that at least 15,000 pilgrims go up the mountain each year. People used to do it barefoot, presumably, to increase the penance involved.

They claim it is a tough 3.5 hour climb, but after the horses the day before, my thighs couldn't have done it in less than five.

We headed up a bit for the views and then back down to a beach to cool off!

There is evidence on the mountain of pre-Christian life. A rock, known locally as St. Patrick's chair (or the Boehe Stone) contains etching dating back to the bronze age.

"The ‘cup and ring’ motifs carved into the ‘Boheh Rock’ are the only known such examples west of the Shannon. The Boheh Stone is almost totally covered in carvings, consisting primarily of cupmarks, many enclosed by one or more circles. There are also several unusual patterns known as keyhole motifs."

"In 1991 local historian, Gerry Bracken, discovered a unique event called ‘The Rolling Sun’. (check out the link of a video of the rolling sun!) When standing at the rock, the sun appears to set on the summit of Croagh Patrick and then proceeds to roll down the right hand slope of the mountain. This event occurs only twice yearly, April 18th and August 24th, thus dividing the year into three equal parts.

The stone is the only fixed place in the landscape from which this rolling sun spectacle can be seen, and this appears to be the reason that it was chosen by these neolithic artists."

Around Croach Patrick there is also an extensive "famine landscape." The famine struck Mayo disproportionately. An amazing sculpture of a famine ship in the village of Murrisk commemorates the event.

After our short climb we headed out to Bertra Beach.