Today we took Sheila's aunt Carol Ann to
Clonmacnoise (
Cluain Mhic Nois, or “meadow of the sons of Nos”). I found the Yeats quote above on a seat devoted to an archeologist who worked on the site. Entire poem at bottom.**
Clonmacnoise is an ancient monastic site overlooking the River Shannon in County Offaly. It was founded in 548 by
St. Ciaran. Being right on the Shannon as well as an "esker" between Galway and Dublin (i.e. a geographical "highway" or gravel ridges through the peat bogs that were formed from the glaciers from the west coast to the east coast) the settlement (or community, hence the "clon") became a major center of religion, learning, trade, craftmanship and politics.
As with almost all ancient things, there's also a link to
Cu Chulain. It is the site of a major battle between Connacht and Ulster at the Battle of the
Tain.*
Like nearly all monastic
settlements in Ireland, Clonmacnoise was plundered on several occasions
by invaders, including the Vikings and Anglo-Normans. It then fell into
decline from the 13th century onwards until it was destroyed in 1552 by
the English garrison from nearby Athlone.
The site is home to some of the most fantastic and preserved high crosses in Ireland.
Below find some close-up images of the crosses and how some have been interpreted.
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The Cross of the Scriptures |
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This "may simply be a depiction of two neighboring chieftans, or more specifically, the conclusion of a contemporary peace pact between High King Flann and the King of Connacht, Cathal Mac Conchobair." |
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This is an image of the resurrection. Note the lower left corner a bird is breathing life into the body of Jesus. |
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The staff of a huge high cross called the "north cross". |
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Image of an animal on the staff of the high cross. |
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This is a group of men on a tour. I asked about the group and they are called "RAMS" or "retired active men." They seemed to be having a blast! |
Here are some images outside of the community. The grounds are home to several temples and two towers.
Temple Ciarán: At 2.8 by 3.8 metres, the smallest church in
Clonmacnoise. Traditionally presented as the grave site of St. Ciarán,
excavations of the church unearthed the Clonmacnoise Crozier, but no
saintly remains. Sheila grabbed a bit of soil from inside the church as the lore has it that it will help our little raised herb garden grow.
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Temple Finghín & McCarthy's Tower |
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O'Rourke's Tower |
The best part of it all though was the
Nun's Church about 500 meters off the actual grounds along a cool "pilgrimage walk" and past a graveyard.
The Romanesque arches were incredibly detailed and magnificent. See for yourself.
* "At the age of seventeen, Cú Chulainn single-handedly defends Ulster from the army of
Connacht in the
Táin Bó Cúailnge.
Medb, queen of Connacht, has mounted the invasion to steal the stud bull
Donn Cúailnge,
and Cú Chulainn allows her to take Ulster by surprise because he is
with a woman when he should be watching the border. The men of Ulster
are disabled by a curse, so Cú Chulainn prevents
Medb's
army from advancing further by invoking the right of single combat at
fords. He defeats champion after champion in a stand-off lasting months."
**
The Lake Isle of Innisfree
I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,
And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made:
Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honey-bee,
And live alone in the bee-loud glade.
And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,
Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;
There midnight's all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow,
And evening full of the linnet's wings.
I will arise and go now, for always night and day
I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;
While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey,
I hear it in the deep heart's core.
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