Saturday, April 27, 2013

The Céilí

In our incessant quest for all things Irish, I came across a local "Comhaltas" (pron: "coltas" and means association/gathering/brotherhood*) called "Culturlann Na Heirann."

This is another one of those things that is quite difficult for the outsider to understand, even once you get the words translated like what is a Céilí (pron: "KAYlee"), its plural Céilithe (pron: "KAYlihuh"), a fleadh (pron: "Flah" but with a bit more complicated and subtle "eee ahh" in the middle) or just a "session" or a "trad."

Here is what Culturlann Na Heirann says about itself: "Cultúrlann na hÉireann, or the “Cultural Home for Ireland”, has been home to the Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann movement for almost forty years. In that time the building itself has been refurbished, but the listed building retains its original 19th century character. The Cultúrlann buzzes with activity, from classes to concerts."

They offer classes in traditional instruments, singing, dance and language and have locations throughout Dublin and the entire country.

We heard about a weekly session where they teach the bodhrán to anyone ("ages 2 to 92") that starts at 7 p.m. and which we plan to take the kids.

Last night we set out to see a Céilí and listen to a session. We had no idea what to expect. Was it a bar? Was it a house? Who would be the musicians?

It was a bit difficult to find the place as it is not on the main street in Monkstown (the next suburb south of Blackrock). But it turned out to be on this beautiful little grassy "square" around which stood stately houses. It reminded me of the many parks in Minneapolis which often get flooded in winter to make ice rinks.


We followed the crowd in and a lady at the desk asked if we were here for the "KAYLEE?" We said "sure!"

Of course there was a bar (not a pub, but literally a place to buy a beer, a tea or a soda, so we headed there for a pint and walked through the hodge podge of rooms that reminded us of a combination of a church basement and an Eagle's club. There were people of all ages throughout, music lessons going on, the beginning organizing of a "session" (a loose gathering of a group of seemingly random  musicians. There ended up being at least 30 people playing everything from the bodhrán to the violin to the flute to the banjo to the guitar... Someone even spontaneously got up and danced in the middle of the circle at one point) getting together to play music which seemed equally organized and disorganized). We headed out of that room to find the Céilí.

What we found was a large group of teenagers (when I inquired I found out that they were visitors from Spain and Germany here to learn a bit if Irish culture) a small band, and an older gentleman calling out the dances.

So, this was a Céilí! (Videos, as usual, to follow).

Here's a little history from Wikipedia:

"Originally, a ceilidh was a social gathering of any sort, and did not necessarily involve dancing." In modern times, "Céilidhs facilitated courting and prospects of marriage for young people and, although discos and nightclubs have displaced céilidhs to a considerable extent, they are still an important and popular social outlet in rural parts of Ireland and Scotland, especially in the Gaelic-speaking regions.

Céilidhs are sometimes held on a smaller scale in private or public houses, for example in remote rural hinterlands and during busy festivals. It is common for some clubs and institutions such as sports clubs, schools and universities and even employers to arrange céilidhs on a regular or at least annual basis."

I really don't think there is the equivalent to this in American Culture. This place (the hall and the organization itself) is clearly there for one main purpose: to further traditional Irish culture. It's second purpose is to bring people together who prize the culture. As I said, its nearest analog is a church community and/or an Eagle's or Elks club where people get together to spend time and do good things. But that sort of thing seems to be dying in American culture. Plus, even the church and the Eagles aren't there to promote cultural activities like music, dance and language. Lastly, what struck me most (as I said) was the age diversity. An anecdotal Census conducted by yours truly finds the range to have been from approximately 11 to 92.

We went back to the "session." An older gentleman on the violin (I later saw his picture on the wall and was told that he is 92 years old) would sometimes pause after a song and give an oral history of it. I only wish I could have heard him better. One story was about the "waxers" of Dublin.

Here are a few pictures of the session and the room in which it took place until I can get you some videos.

















*Here is a great online glossary of Irish words and their pronunciation.


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