On the way to the city Jeanne showed us several points of interest, in particular the "Nicopolis" or "City of Victory." This was an ancient city of "Epirus" founded in 31 BC by Octavian (Julius Caesar's 18-year old adopted son and heir) in memory of his victory over his sister, Cleopatra and her B.F., Antony at the Battle of Actium in the previous year.*
We went to the site where the battle occurred. At the moment we walked up to the site a sheepherder had followed his flock into the area. The site was, clearly, much more serene than back in Anthony and Cleopatra's day.
After the battle Octavian created the "city of victory" (Actia Nicopolis) in 31 BC to memoralize his victory at Actium. The city was spectacular and held extraordinary views over the Ambracian gulf and into the Ionian Sea (see below).** The ruins have been studied and indicate a highly civilized populace. Octavian held festivals held in honor of Apollo and Poseidon and there is evidence of musical and athletic competitions held in the city.
The theatre (above) had a rectangular state building and a gymnasium and bath complex linked to it.
Octavian (who later became known as Augustus Caesar) placed his headquarters on the hill of Michalitsi after the battle and dedicated the height to Apollo. According to the legend on the site he "built a victory monument which he adorned with booty and the rams of the enemy's ships." The houses in the area had mosaic floors, inner courtyards and private baths.
The whole area flourished during early Christian times but Bulgar incursions in the 10th century led to gradual abandonment of Nikopolis.
After all of this history we headed to Preveza for some seaside relaxation and refreshments.
We wandered through the city, Paris kicking a ball with Johnny the whole way. Their favorite place was packed so we passed and found a great little spot to sit down.
There is nothing like Greek food ordered and organized by an outgoing and gregarious Greek. Yiorgos ordered us some excellent fish, toast, french fries, wine, calamari, garlic potatoes, eggplant and roe. He talks with everyone. Maybe its because he knows everyone, or knows their father or uncle or some other relative. He was a policeman and seemed to have connections everywhere. If he didn't, his confident swagger, and inquisitive and joking interactions just make people feel comfortable. At this restaurant, I saw him chatting in the kitchen with the owner/cook. When Jeanne translated, he was finding out all about her life, where she grew up and how long she had been married.
After lunch we wandered through the city and then to the gulf to look around and, of course, get some ice cream.
Jeanne and Yiorgos showed us these signs on the posts notifying people of local deaths and their funerals.
And here is a beautiful garden, typically Greek. Yiorgos and Jeanne said that the little shack in the back was used as a kitchen and there is a well in front of it. Notice the lemon tree and the gorgeos linen in the windows.
Here is us by the sea.
* The romance between Anthony and Cleopatra was bound to be a political scandal. Octavian thought that Cleopatra and her son Caesarion (son of Julius Caesar) were were his only real threat to power, so when Tony broke with his wife (Octavian's sister) for the Egyptian hottie, Cleopatra, Octavian took it to mean that Tony was trying to break up the Roman even though Anthony and Octavian had been besties and fought for the Roman Republic together in the civil war after Caesar's assassination. Roman politicians thought Anthony moved to Egypt and took up with Cleopatra just to expand his influence.
The Battle of Actium between Octavian and Antony/Cleopatra was the decisive confrontation of the Final War of the Roman Republic. It was a naval engagement fought between the forces of Octavian versus Mark Antony and Cleopatra VII. The battle took place on 2 September 31 BC, on the Ionian Sea. Octavian's victory enabled him to consolidate his power over Rome and its dominions.
** The victory had significant and long-reaching ramifications. It was thought that the victory successfully unified the Roman Empire under one and created a major transportation and communications point linking the eastern and western halves of the Mediterranean.
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